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Dessous, sens dessus dessous

Pubblicato da
Safia Kachour
il 22 novembre 2013
Le Musée des Arts décoratifs de Paris, nous présente "La mécanique des dessous" : le récit des sous-vêtements à travers les âges

Corsets, baleines, paniers, crinolines robotisées, porte-jartelles, soutien-gorges push-up et guêpières pour elle. Armures, fraises, amplificateurs de mollets, ceintures d’estomac, braguettes, caleçons, et boxers pour lui. Les enfants ne sont pas non plus épargnés de cette guerre «mécanique» du dessous. Le musée des Arts décoratifs nous raconte l’histoire non pas du vêtement mais du sous-vêtement qui s’amorce à la fin du  Moyen-Âge et ne cesse d’ évoluer jusqu’aujourd’hui de manière toute à fait stupéfiante. 

Paradoxalement cachés et marqueurs d’une condition sociale, de santé physique, de virilité ou féminité, les dessous façonnent en coulisse l’ambition de la silhouette parfaite. Cette exposition interroge nos conception de «la belle allure», notre désir d’atteindre cet idéal normé en façonnant le corps, en le modulant par le biais de divers simulacres et subterfuges. L’exposition nous révèle comment tout cela semble se conditionner à travers des règles implicites du paraître propres à chaque ère : l’obsession virile du Moyen-Âge, la silhouette élancée et cambrée de l’homme à la cour de Louis XIV, le déguisement d’un ventre un peu gonflé au 20e siècle ou alors l’affirmation des formes, des hanches de la femme du 18e siècle, la poitrine bombée et l’érotisme sophistiqué de nos jours... On nous dévoile des pièces très rares replacées dans leur contexte, par exemple cette pièce regroupant ces sous-vêtements encombrants et invasifs en un seul ensemble, n’ayant jamais vu le jour dans les pratiques usuelles et s’avérant ainsi être un échec commercial  cuisant dès le début du 20ème siècle.

Dans cette ambiance feutrée, vivante, on s’exclame de surprise face à l’inventivité de ces stratégies pour masquer le moindre petit défaut disgracieux. Alors que la mode a du mal à s’exposer du fait de son caractère très élitiste, souvent rédhibitoire, la volonté de présenter un objet avant une oeuvre d’art nous rapproche de ces modèles que l’on peut même essayer grâce aux reconstitutions en «libre service».

Ce désir d’interactivité, finalement très pédagogique et finement mené prend tout son sens grâce à une actualisation de ces problématiques autour de la silhouette : L’exposition se clos avec les modèles emblématiques de créateurs plus contemporains, montrant l’apparition d’une recherche de sensualité dont se sont récemment dotés les sous-vêtement grâce à l’incontournable Chantal Tomass. On sent l’influence de cette histoire du sous-vêtement sur la haute couture et prêt-à-porter d’aujourd’hui, quand le sous-vêtement devient vêtement : on pense aux pièces érotiques de Thierry Mugler, la dentelle élégante Steve Mc Queen ou encore les squelettes sculpturaux d’Iris Van Harpen mais aussi cette fascinante robe de mariée signée Jean-Paul Gaultier. En conclusion, les commissaires et scénographes, Denis Bruna et Constance Guisset, nous proposent une comparaison des mannequins de couture très audacieuse, une belle idée de synthèse, sans cacher le côté cyclique de la mode actuelle, entre nostalgie d’une histoire ancienne et l’affirmation d’un glamour nouveau.

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